clutch slipping :(

Xuryfluous

Xuryfluous

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So my clutch stared slipping pretty bad today out of the blue. I know it has a stm slipper clutch in it, and i still have the stock clutch. The guy i bought it off of also gave me an empty dp clutch kit case, so im thinking he put those plates in the stm clutch basket. I've tried looking online but haven't found a lot of information on how many teeth the STM basket has, or how many the Does anyone know of I'm able to use the stock plates in the stm clutch basket? I really have no idea when it comes to clutches


edit: Just checked the clutch, it has all 8 friction plates, but no pressure plates. I'm guessing the pressure plates that are currently in the clutch thats slipping would be no good?
 
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You are missing a ton of information. What bike is it? Is this a new to you bike?

What your suggestion bout the driven steel plates - its not possible.
 
Sorry I should have been more specific, its a 2005 R6, and I am the 3rd owner. So I ended up getting everything I needed to change the plates out, but I now have a bigger issue. While removing the friction and pressure plates out of the clutch basket, the STM clutch moved forward, and one of the ball bearings fell down into the motor, the other 5 are accounted for. So far to try and get it out we have tried filling the bike back up with oil and draining it again, leaning the bike over and blowing air into it to try and dislodge the bearing, neither have worked. I'm out of ideas short of dropping the oil pan, which looks like it would require tearing the entire bike apart. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get that ball bearing out of there? Also does anyone know if there is a built in magnet in the transmission to collect metal debris? I know some cars have that, but not sure about the bike.
 
Xuryfluous said:
Sorry I should have been more specific, its a 2005 R6, and I am the 3rd owner. So I ended up getting everything I needed to change the plates out, but I now have a bigger issue. While removing the friction and pressure plates out of the clutch basket, the STM clutch moved forward, and one of the ball bearings fell down into the motor, the other 5 are accounted for. So far to try and get it out we have tried filling the bike back up with oil and draining it again, leaning the bike over and blowing air into it to try and dislodge the bearing, neither have worked. I'm out of ideas short of dropping the oil pan, which looks like it would require tearing the entire bike apart. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get that ball bearing out of there? Also does anyone know if there is a built in magnet in the transmission to collect metal debris? I know some cars have that, but not sure about the bike.
Click to expand...

The only magnetic feature would be the drain plug. If it were me - i'd drop the pan...if those balls get into your trans, its going to cuase a lot of damage. Balls are usually hardened (so are the transmission grears) but it has the potential to cause a great deal of damage.


You can try and feed in a magnetic pick up tool - see if that will catch the ball.
 
ok, so end of the night report....got the oil pan dropped, found the ball bearing. clutch is put back together. still need a new oil pan gasket, we needed to take the water pump cover off and the o-ring for that got stretched. broke a header stud getting the exhaust off, so have to order one of those too. My big question for anyone that views this, is once the oil pan was removed, I noticed a small crack in the crankcase housing where the center bolt goes in. What I need to know, is where that crack is serious, as in I now need a new motor.

kHJCo3a.jpg


mIav1cv.jpg
 
Wow, that crack looks pretty bad!!! :(

-Jamie M.
 
As the second pair of hands who is helping Xury on this, our biggest question right now is to find out if that crack leads into a part of the motor where we would not want oil, or if it belongs to another function of the motor.

Is it an hollow channel that leads no where? Is it a coolant channel? Something else that we aren't aware of? We're well aware that oil+coolant=no good, and also that we don't want oil making its way where oil isn't meant to be.

We're hoping someone who has torn these types of engines apart can chime in here before we decide to put it all back together and take a chance.

Thanks ahead.
 
jeero said:
As the second pair of hands who is helping Xury on this, our biggest question right now is to find out if that crack leads into a part of the motor where we would not want oil, or if it belongs to another function of the motor.

Is it an hollow channel that leads no where? Is it a coolant channel? Something else that we aren't aware of? We're well aware that oil+coolant=no good, and also that we don't want oil making its way where oil isn't meant to be.

We're hoping someone who has torn these types of engines apart can chime in here before we decide to put it all back together and take a chance.

Thanks ahead.
Click to expand...

Looks like it might be part of the casting the crank sits in, try bike bandit to get a better idea:

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2005-yamaha-yzf-r6-ca-yzfr6tc/o/m145414#sch523279
 
I think that crack is on the main oil gallery comming from oil filter and feeding the engine.
Check and see if it is cracked all the way through. It may be a surface crack.

If it is cracked all the way, maybe try JB weld or have it welded.
 
Figured out what we needed to, the engine is back together and send to run strong. The problem now is that the clutch is no longer engaging at all. We put everything back together the same way it was taken apart. When I took it out for the test ride everything was fine in first gear, no slipping or anything. As soon as I shifted from first to second the clutch lever went slack.

Felt like the cable snapped. I pulled over and shut the bike off, and if I adjusted the clutch lever as tight as it would go, it would move the center arm connected to the clutch cover, we verified by removing the oil fill cap and looking in the hole, but the clutch won't engage.

We put the bike on a rear stand and started her up and removed the fill cap, and you can see the pressure plates spinning, but they aren't moving the friction plates at all when the bike is in gear. You can also push the bike while in gear as well. We had no idea what the problem was, so the bike is in the shop now. Hopefully the pros can fix it, although it went in on Monday and they still haven't had a chance to look at it as of noon today. I'm hoping is not an expensive fix

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
Good luck with a cheap/easy repair :(

What shop is it at (if you don't mind saying). I know all of them are VERY busy this week :(

-Jamie M.
 
Clare's in Fenwick. Closest Yamaha dealer to me

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
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