Checking & adjusting valve clearances

ALD

Well-known member
I checked the valve clearances on my 2003 V Star 1100 & they needed to be adjusted as all appropriate steps were followed for this entire procedure using my service manual.
Noted clearances in my service manual.
Intake 0.07-0.12 mm
Exhaust 0.12-0.17 mm

I set the intake clearances on the front & rear cylinders to 0.09 with slight drag on the feeler blade.
Tried to insert a 0.10 feeler blade & it does not pass through.

The exhaust clearances on the front & rear cylinders are set to 0.14 with slight drag on the feeler blade.
Tried to insert a 0.15 feeler blade & it does not pass through.

Are these good settings to stay with?
 
I tend to go wider/closer to the max gap on exhaust since they usually tighten faster. I've never done a traditional v twin though, only inlines.
 
It will be fine. Screw and locknut adjusters? Normally using shims, it is only with astounding luck that you can nail the exact clearance number that you want.
 
It will be fine. Screw and locknut adjusters? Normally using shims, it is only with astounding luck that you can nail the exact clearance number that you want.
Hi Brian

Thanks for the info.
It's the hex screw with the lock nut to make adjustments.
Also torqued the lock nuts to 20ft lbs as per the service manual
 
You're within spec, you're good. No further work required.

If you want a fun project, you can try different settings (within the allowable range) and see what that does to the feel on the engine. Setting them at the bottom end of the range often increases power a bit at the expense of fuel economy. If you set at the tight end, you need to check more often.
 
the tightest tolerance provides greatest lift. but I wouldn't set it that way.
 
It will be fine. Screw and locknut adjusters? Normally using shims, it is only with astounding luck that you can nail the exact clearance number that you want.
Questions
- are hydraulic tappets truly maintenance-free and if so why are they not a more frequent appearance in engine designs?
- shim type tappets are a pain to work on and yet most motors feature them, what am I missing here?
- screw and locknut adjusting tappets can be accurately set and easy to work on, so why aren't these more widely used?

....nudge, nudge, Brian please share your expertise!
 
Questions
- are hydraulic tappets truly maintenance-free and if so why are they not a more frequent appearance in engine designs?
- shim type tappets are a pain to work on and yet most motors feature them, what am I missing here?
- screw and locknut adjusting tappets can be accurately set and easy to work on, so why aren't these more widely used?

....nudge, nudge, Brian please share your expertise!
Hydraulic - I don't know, good question.
Shim - Lower part count, very unlikely to fail, less reciprocating mass
Screw - higher part count, more fiddly machining, can fail (go way out of adjustment) if not torqued properly, higher reciprocating mass. May require adjustment more frequently than shims due to smaller contact area?

I also like screw adjust. Much easier to play with. Just playing with valve lash (within the allowable range) could move top (indicated) speed on my 450 from 145 to 170+.
 
Questions
- are hydraulic tappets truly maintenance-free and if so why are they not a more frequent appearance in engine designs?
- shim type tappets are a pain to work on and yet most motors feature them, what am I missing here?
- screw and locknut adjusting tappets can be accurately set and easy to work on, so why aren't these more widely used?

....nudge, nudge, Brian please share your expertise!

Hydraulic lash adjusters are maintenance-free until they fail ... which is not unheard of ("collapsed lifter"). They are common, if not universal, in production engines with pushrod valvetrain designs, because the distance from the camshaft to the valve is so far and goes through so many things subject to differing thermal expansion that it's otherwise hard to pick a consistent single manually-set clearance that will always work regardless of the depths of winter cold starts or hot summer or anything in between. YES you could get some high-performance pushrod V8 engines with solid lifters over the years ... they're noisy.

Hydraulic lifters of the type used in pushrod V8 engines and (I think) Harley engines are pushed up and down by the cam lobe, sitting against the cam lobe with the pushrod on top of them ... adding reciprocating weight. That's why the high-performance versions of some older V8 engines substituted solid lifters ... they're lighter.

There's another design used in overhead-cam engines with rocker arms, in which the hydraulic lash adjuster stays put and acts as the fixed pivot point of the rocker arm. Eliminates the lash adjuster as a source of reciprocating valvetrain weight ... but it's another thing to take up space in what is often an already-congested cylinder head filled with valves, ports, springs, etc.

The direct-acting shim-under-bucket design is lightweight, very low reciprocating valvetrain weight, compact, and with the distance between the camshaft and the valve as short as possible, less subject to clearance variation with engine temperature and operating conditions. Plenty of production car engines use something like this. Toyota builds plenty of engines with bucket-type valvetrains.

There are a couple of variations on the shim+bucket design. One type has no separate clearance adjustment shim - it's built into the bucket itself, and if it needs adjustment, you change the whole bucket. Another type - was common in older bike engines - uses a shim OVER bucket. The shim is much larger in diameter and is on top of the bucket, and is the part that actually rides against the camshaft. The good thing is that with these, it is at least theoretically possible to replace the shim without removing camshafts. The bad thing is that when over-revved, they were prone to spitting out that shim, followed by very bad things happening to the valvetrain. I think these have gone obsolete.

Screw-type adjusters are all well and good but it imposes constraints on the layout of the valvetrain - you have to be able to put tools on the adjusters and you have to be able to get the feeler gauges in there somewhere. Another nuisance is that the contact between the screw adjuster (which swings in an arc, and could be in any orientation due to adjustment) and the top of the valve (which moves in a straight line) is a point contact, which is never favourable in terms of wear and contact stress.

There are always tradeoffs, and what's best in one application isn't necessarily best for all.
 
Thank you Kevin Cameron Jr.
 
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Just to add, my understanding is shim under bucket also allows for much stiffer valve springs, which then allows for higher rpm's without getting valve float.
 
Just to add, my understanding is shim under bucket also allows for much stiffer valve springs, which then allows for higher rpm's without getting valve float.
The mini engine I had that blew up had screw adjust rockers and stiff double springs. It was the bottom end that let go.
 
Of the systems listed, buckets and shims are the most precise.
The bucket exerts a force that is 100% in line with the valve. If there is a rocker arm involved, the arm moves in an arc, which imparts a lateral force.
BUT if you have a rocker arm, you can play with the geometry and get more or less lift. Most rockers are 1 to1 ratio, with the pivot dead center. By moving that center you can change the lift. With a 1 to 2 ratio and a cam lift of 0.250" you get 0.500" at the valve. That way you can run a cam of smaller dimensions... cuz it gets crowded in the head.
Or if you're Hyundai you use this for variable cam timing. That Hyundai setup is pretty cool.
Before hydraulic lifters we had solid lifters... but they were called cam followers. They were loud and needed frequent adjustments... like every third oil change.
Hydraulic lifters came along when we needed MORE POWER.
A good cam grind for idle and low RPM is a lousy cam grind for making power. We installed a high lift cam for power, but the thing wouldn't idle.
A hydraulic lifter is hollow and fills with oil at pressure. At idle there is low oil pressure, so the lifters are soft and will compress against the spring, and do not deliver full cam lift to the rockers.
At higher RPM, and higher oil pressure the lifters get harder and deliver more lift to the rockers... hopefully ALL the lift.
Sorta variable lift. Low lift at low RPM, full lift at high RPM. Solved a whole bunch of problems.
... and us idiots kept putting bigger and bigger cams in there TILL the lifters couldn't keep up. The lift was too high, the valve spring tensions were too much and the 80# of oil pressure couldn't fully open the valve... so we got solid lifters.

Then the ramp of the cam we were using got too steep for flat tappet solid lifters we got roller lifters
Roller lifters were such a good idea, it brought roller rockers, which negates the lateral force from moving in an arc.
Roller lifters and rockers are smaller, weigh less, follow the cam profile more accurately and reduce a bunch of friction. WIN WIN WIN
 

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