Changing Cam Chain Tensioner CBR F4

Pesticide

New member
In the process of changing the cam chain tensioner on my 2000 CBR F4. I will be putting a new OEM back in place. My question is does the motor have to be set with number 1 piston at TDC? I have read several installs and only some mention this. My second question is there an easy way to find TDC? I am kinda of in the bind as the bike is apart and really dont want to reassemble it to take to a shop. Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated. I would even pay someone to help with this if that is an option. (located in Georgetown) Thanks in advance.
 
Dont waste your money on a OEM one again, its going to be useless in the near future once again. Get a APE manual CCT for 52$ + 5 for gasket and forget about it
 
I already have the OEM one. I dont plan on owning the bike past maybe next season. I agree if I was to hold onto the bike the manual one would have been best.
 
Dont waste your money on a OEM one again, its going to be useless in the near future once again. Get a APE manual CCT for 52$ + 5 for gasket and forget about it

Put a manual tensioner in and forget about it? Horrible advice.


The bike doesn't need to be at top dead center to change the tensioner. Just make sure the motor doesn't rotate while the tensioner is out.
 
Put a manual tensioner in and forget about it? Horrible advice.


The bike doesn't need to be at top dead center to change the tensioner. Just make sure the motor doesn't rotate while the tensioner is out.

How is that horrible advise?
 
Well, you can't completely "forget" about a manual cam chain tensioner - they do need to be checked and adjusted from time to time. But, given the history of tensioners on CBR600's (lousy!), you'll probably have to adjust a manual one at a not too dissimilar frequency from having to replace the OEM automatic (but failure-prone) tensioner.

I'd go with the manual tensioner, myself. Probably costs less than the OEM crappy tensioner ...
 
As someone who has changed literally hundreds of crappy Honda tensioners I am with the others in saying APE is the way to go.
Now that you already have a OEM piece it doesnt need to be TDC just install and set as laid out in the manual. There should already be a lock holding the spring back. Install the tensioner and gasket and release the lock. It will snap into place and you are done. I like to roll the bike over by hand a couple times before I run it as well.
BTW I have a F4 track bike that still rocks the OEM and I noticed last track day she was starting to tick so I will be ordering the manual one for mine even though I have another OEM sitting here.
 
A manual tensioner needs to be adjusted MANUALLY.
If you think loosening a nut then ajusting a bolt then retightening a nut is too much work then live with the crappy honda one.
Just look at it as choosing the lesser of two evils, whichever that might be to each individual.
 
A manual tensioner needs to be adjusted MANUALLY.

When you are installing a manual one, you obviously have to set the tension manually....ie. MMCT?!
 
When you are installing a manual one, you obviously have to set the tension manually....ie. MMCT?!

The point is manually adjusting chain tension != forgetting about it.
 
The point is manually adjusting chain tension != forgetting about it.

Yup! point noted.

In my books, installing a MMCT means you gotta set the tension right.

Its like changing a tire, it means you have to inflate the new tire to specs.
 
What's an MMCT!?!?!?

One pro to the OEM CCT is that it is relatively fool proof during installation.
 
If you think loosening a nut then ajusting a bolt then retightening a nut is too much work then live with the crappy honda one.
Just look at it as choosing the lesser of two evils, whichever that might be to each individual.

Reading comprehension not so strong?

Refer to the post about installing and forgetting about it.

Nothing wrong with a manual tensioner....as long as you keep it adjusted.
 
I did the change on the weekend without a hitch. Thanks for the advice everyone! :)
 
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