car battery / relay problems

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mmmnaked

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My car wouldn't start this morning. Very very slow half a crank, a bunch of relays clicking, etc. So I boosted it, cranked up no problem... runs fine as long as I don't turn it off. At idle its reading 14.5v across the terminals, charging well. I drove around for a while then parked at the mall to run errands... car wouldn't start again. Get another boost, all is good.

Battery tests fine at 12.5 volts, but its old and corroded. I went to CT anyway and bought a brand new battery (left the car running in the lot)...the new one tests at 12.7 volts. Car won't start with the new battery either.

What would make it not wanna start at 12.5 volts but it starts fine with 13+ being boosted by another a battery charger at 10 amps? I have a feeling this one is gonna suck to troubleshoot.
 
Battery was sitting on the shelf too long? You did say CT.

Any battery that is worth buying you can get from the dealer for the same price (had to do the same in January).
 
fastar1 said:
Battery was sitting on the shelf too long? You did say CT.

Any battery that is worth buying you can get from the dealer for the same price (had to do the same in January).
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How you figure that? Wouldn't it make more sense that the issue is related to the car since the same symptoms are happening with 2 different batteries?

There are CT batteries you can not get from the Dealer
 
The dash behaves erratically. The car won't crank at all, putting key in IGN ON position makes the speedo and tach flutter and I can hear faint rapid clicking happening somewhere under the dash. Im testing voltage on exposed areas of the cables themselves as opposed to battery terminals, to rule out crap terminals.

Basically it doesn't seem battery related, terminal related, or starter related at all.
 
ZX600 said:
How you figure that? Wouldn't it make more sense that the issue is related to the car since the same symptoms are happening with 2 different batteries?
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This is a part-swap test, and the part that was swapped in is questionable. There was nothing to suggest the 2nd battery was fully charged, except that it was "new" which I don't take as a reliable indicator of state of charge.
 
fastar1 said:
This is a part-swap test, and the part that was swapped in is questionable. There was nothing to suggest the 2nd battery was fully charged, except that it was "new" which I don't take as a reliable indicator of state of charge.
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The point of part swapping is when the new part that replaced the old part in question does not solve the problem, you conclude that the issue must be somewhere else... no?

But yea, if it is CT must be crap :rolleyes:
 
ZX600 said:
The point of part swapping is when the new part that replaced the old part in question does not solve the problem, you conclude that the issue must be somewhere else... no?

But yea, if it is CT must be crap :rolleyes:
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Not swapping in a new part, but a known good working part. They're not the same thing.
 
As for CT, I shop there regularly. Wouldn't know where else to go for much stuff. But I've been burned often enough with their stuff that I'll try to find the equivalent deal somewhere else first, and will always maintain what I feel is a healthy dose of suspicion regarding the quality of anything I end up buying there.

Nothing personal.
 
Follow the ground cable from the battery to it's connection to the car frame - can get corrosion at that point...
You don't give any details of your car
mmmnaked said:
...just found this recall which I havent had done...
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<= you have a 10 year-old Nissan? Any other history, i.e. is this the original battery?
 
i had to replace my starter last feb. i had a weak battery that really worked my starter. i replaced the battery, then 2 weeks later the starter finally gave up. im pretty sure the dash lit up and would tick when i tried to crank it but it wouldn't. got it towed. replaced starter. cranks like a champ.
 
Well that was retarded. I chopped the negative cable connector off and crimped on a new one I had laying around the garage..... car fired right up. The old connector looked fine. Da fuk?

Waste of money on a new battery I guess.. but the old one was corroding the posts badly so I guess it was time to swap. Maybe all the corrosion got the best of the connector and cable end, tho they appeared ok.
 
mmmnaked said:
Well that was retarded. I chopped the negative cable connector off and crimped on a new one I had laying around the garage..... car fired right up. The old connector looked fine. Da fuk?

Waste of money on a new battery I guess.. but the old one was corroding the posts badly so I guess it was time to swap. Maybe all the corrosion got the best of the connector and cable end, tho they appeared ok.
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I thought you keep telling everyone how rich you are.
Just buy a new car?
Why are you driving an old car anyways.

twilight zone.............................
 
Its my snowplow vehicle to clear the 3km driveway bro. Get with it.
 
-D- said:
I thought you keep telling everyone how rich you are.
Just buy a new car?
Why are you driving an old car anyways.

twilight zone.............................
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You couldn't pay a twat to work on it?

#richpeopleproblems
 
Check the battery cables. Sometimes they go bad, hard to see.
 
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