Can thinner oil cause engine ticking??

LoneRonin

LoneRonin

Well-known member
I have noticed a new tick tick tick noise recently which is only there when the engine is cold. I recently switched to synthetic 5W40 oil and another rider told me the thinner oil could be a cause for this.
He said the oil probably isn't sticking to the internal parts as well when its cold due to thiness and it sounds like the noise is a dry cam chain...
Any ideas? At first I though CCT but its fine when warm and at operating temperatures...I think I will switch back to 10W40 and see how that goes.
 
The oil is "thinner" than the 10w40 when it is cold but it is still waaaaaaay thicker than it is when the oil is hot. The ticking is unlikely to be related to the oil viscosity. It's also unlikely to be anything related to parts being "dry". Good quality motor oils don't just slide right off parts, and the moment the oil pump starts pumping when you start the engine, there is oil pressure and oil splash everywhere inside the engine within a second of start-up. When your oil pressure warning lamp goes off ... that's when there is oil filling all the oil galleries inside the engine. I presume the noise you are talking about is present long after the oil pressure warning lamp goes off.

Not saying that there isn't anything amiss but this ain't it.

I don't know of any 5w40 oils that are poor quality, although there are some that don't meet JASO MA. That won't affect what you are talking about, though.
 
A 5 weight oil is thinner than a 10 weight oil as a single weight oil. Using a 5W30 or 40 verses a 10W30 or 40 should have very little difference in it's thickness at operating temperatures at this time of year. The thinner weight is for cold starting to get it flowing quicker at low temperatures.

If you're experiencing engine noise I really doubt that it would be caused by this change. A different weight or better quality oil may have been masking a problem, the lower weight oil isn't causing it.
 
would 5w20 be horrible to use on a bike that is used to running 5w30?
 
Contrary to what the GTAM experts have said, YES a lower viscosity oil (lower viscosity than what was recommended by the manufacturer) could be causing this "tick" that goes away when the motor warms up.
It could also be caused by a faulty leak back valve in your oil filter (anyone that ran Fram filters on a Chev smallblock in the '70s and '80's knows that).
It could also be caused by a partially blocked pickup on the oil pump.
It could be caused by a faulty oil pump.
It could be caused by obstructed oil passages.
It could be one or more of several causes, but the FIRST thing to do in diagnostics is go back to the oil recommended by the guy that designed the motor.


Please let us know what happens when you go back to the manufacturers recommended oil.
 
To the OP: When is the engine due for valve clearance inspection?

rawr said:
would 5w20 be horrible to use on a bike that is used to running 5w30?
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Xw20 oils are not to be used on engines that did not originally specify their use. As far as I know, all engines that specify Xw20 as factory-fill use roller cam followers. Your bike engine does not.
 
09 250r at about 46k km, last checkup was at roughly 32k km.

Previous oil was Motul 5100 10w40, now Rotella T6 5w40.
I switched because I ride the bike in the winter months too and was worried since my ride to school was only about 7-12 minutes the 10W40 probably wasn't warming up quick enough...
 
LoneRonin said:
09 250r at about 46k km, last checkup was at roughly 32k km.

... was worried since my ride to school was only about 7-12 minutes the 10W40 probably wasn't warming up quick enough...
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Nothing is going to get up to operating temps in ten minutes... and less viscous oil is not an answer.

Try blocking off part of the rad (Avoid blocking the center of the rad. I have used a piece of cardboard with a round hole cut into the middle) which will get you up to operating temps sooner... but 10 minutes, maybe not.

Be aware that short trips like that are VERY hard on oil. You're not getting the engine warm enough for long enough to cook off the condensation in the crankcase (there is always condensation in the crankcase).
 
5-40 is fine the lower the first number the quicker it will get to the top at startup (less viscous moves faster) the second number is the same so will do same job at temp.
I have used 0W-40 Synthetic Bel Ray for years with no issue. Ticking is likely a cam chain. Even valves when out are generally tight not losse hense the old saying noisy valves are happy valves/
 
kneedragger88 said:
5-40 is fine the lower the first number the quicker it will get to the top at startup (less viscous moves faster) the second number is the same so will do same job at temp.
I have used 0W-40 Synthetic Bel Ray for years with no issue. Ticking is likely a cam chain. Even valves when out are generally tight not losse hense the old saying noisy valves are happy valves/
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I was thinking maybe because its more viscous and because it has been pretty hot lately it was draining out the top end quicker and not sticking as well to the cam chain and other parts. I rode today without ear plugs and can hear that the ticking increases with rpms further pointing to the dry cam chain, but I'd assume if its properly lubricated and making the noise it would still do it at operating temps...
 
There is no way the cam chain is "dry" when the engine is running. Absolutely, positively, no possibility of that.

Not saying the cam chain isn't the source of the noise ... only saying that whatever noise there is, isn't because it's "dry". There is oil splashing EVERYWHERE inside the engine when it is running. The only path for oil to return from the cylinder head to the crankcase is via the tunnel for the timing chain, and oil is constantly pumped to the head under pressure to lubricate the top end.

Check the valve clearances and make sure the tensioner is working properly. I am not sure what type of tensioner that engine uses. If it is the type that uses a spring-loaded ratchet, and it is just short of that ratchet clicking to the next step, the tension on the chain might be on the loose side of the range that it is designed for.
 
I had the similar ticking you described. It was the cam chain bolt which I had my mechanic swap while checking on my valves.
 
Brian P said:
There is no way the cam chain is "dry" when the engine is running. Absolutely, positively, no possibility of that.
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It does it for only the first couple minutes at startup and then goes away when actually running...Either way I will switch back to manufacturer recommended oil and will go from there. Still have warranty til next season so If anything serious happens it not too big of a deal

Dresden said:
I had the similar ticking you described. It was the cam chain bolt which I had my mechanic swap while checking on my valves.
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do you also have the same bike and did it go away when the bike was warmed up? I just had my last valve adjustment less than 15k km ago not due for about 5 k more...
 
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