Cams,pods, and dyna....need tuning?

blakeonline

blakeonline

Active member
I have a vstar 1100, Ive put straight through hard krome exhaust on and over the winter will add

Boss 429 cams
Maxair Predator pro intake
( anything else?)
:confused:
BiG QUESTION!
If I do that stuff, do I need to buy a dyna 3000 ignition module for $220? Ca I just buy the think that Maxair sells that keeps the "fuel solinoid" from shutting off fuel before redline for $35?

Whats the difference between these things? Does my 07' cruiser have a computer that can be tuned with this dyna 3000? I thought the carb just dumps fuel...I can see it with the fuel injected bikes....
Im confused, please help me out here so I know what to budget for!
Thank you, Blake
 
I don't know the specific parts in question but as a general principle, with this sort of work, you will need the carbs re-jetted. Changing stuff upstream of the carb changes the vacuum signal that the carb sees, which can substantially affect the fuel delivery. Changing cam timing may or may not require jetting changes (but will require rejetting for best results).

Your engine has a small ECU which controls the ignition timing. Most people don't get into ignition timing when tuning bike engines but again, for best results ... there's only one way to find out.

Of course, the "how fast do you want to go" and "how much money do you want to spend" questions are inextricably linked. And there is a trade-off between reliability/durability and the types of things that are done to the engine.

When changing camshafts ... make sure the piston to valve clearance is checked/addressed in some way ...
 
Thank you for the reply;

I intend to re jet it as I've yet to do so with the exhaust and feel the bike is not running as well as it should now the exhaust is done...

I'm under the impression, may be wrong, that the valve clearance wouldnt be an issue as these cams are supposed to be blug and play with a stock engine. I may be wrong!

Do I re jet the engine then take it to the dyno place to be tuned? Or am I better to have them do it as they run it on the dyno...thats sort of confusing me. I wouldnt want to put the wrong size in there and they cant make whatever changes they need due to that.

Buy that dyna 3000 module or not? is that a big part of the tuning as in will they set a carb up to do different things in different gears ( air/fuel ratio)?

Cams and air intake are about $600, Dyna 3000 $249, then dyno testing $250

I dont go fast at all...I would just love to have more power on tap and I snagged the bike for a great deal from Texas and will have it until I have kids so its worth dropping the money right now!

Thanks again
 
I have no idea what the Dyna 3000 device is. I assume (and assumptions can be wrong) that it is some sort of gizmo to recalibrate the ignition timing. How it does that ... no idea. Whether changes to the ignition timing are appropriate for the engine ... no idea. Unless you have access to someone else's tuning notes on the same bike (google ...) the only way to find out is testing with the device in place, and without. On sport bikes, it is not common to tamper with the ignition timing although it CAN be done through PowerCommander using their ignition module. For what it's worth, PowerCommander's main commander, Bazzaz, at last check does not even offer ignition timing tuning ... which just might suggest that it's not worth doing or is not worth the risks. I have NO IDEA what the effect will be on your bike. If the OEM setup is deliberately restricted, it might be quite large. If the OEM setup is pretty close to optimum ... it'll probably accomplish next to nothing. Only way to find out are to either find results from others who have done it ... or buy the unit and test, test, test.

As for carb jetting ... Find out from the jetting kit manufacturer and/or the air intake manufacturer what they recommend for a baseline setting and put that in the carbs. The changes that the camshaft wants are probably not predictable up front, so assume no effect. It's best to go to the dyno with a bike that at least RUNS.

P.S. Camshafts can be funny things to deal with. On sport bikes, the OEM camshafts on anything recent are usually not too far off the mark, except possibly on engines that are known to be restricted (e.g. Suzuki Bandit 1200 versus GSXR 1100). What that means is that changing camshafts can change things but it might not be an overall gain. (Lose some in one RPM range and gain in another, etc.)

Race camshafts on sport bikes are normally biased towards top end power and on a street bike, ask yourself how much you use the mid-range versus how much you really use the top end. You normally don't get both ... select cam timing for top end power and you'll lose bottom end. I own one bike in which I am now kinda wishing I hadn't done the cams.
 
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