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Brake pad "bed-in"
- Thread starter 219R6
- Start date
If the new pads are a different pad than what you're replacing you should scour the rotors to remove the old brake pad material. You can get heads to work in any drill that will make it an easy job. You'll have to remove the rotors from the wheel to get to the back side though.
If the new pads are the same as the old ones you don't need to scour the rotors.
Then go for a ride.. brake moderately hard 5-6 times then let them cool down completely.
If the new pads are the same as the old ones you don't need to scour the rotors.
Then go for a ride.. brake moderately hard 5-6 times then let them cool down completely.
Last edited:
franz131
Well-known member
It's important to understand what the bed-in process is so that you don't get caught up in opinions.
Stainless steel brake rotors are actually poor for coefficient of friction but they are extremely durable. Brake pads are designed to deposit a layer of pad material on the rotors to increase the CoF. The process of depositing pad material requires heat but not as much as during regular operation, therefore you should brake moderately (as Tim said) a number of times. It can be done during an on-track session but it requires real restraint to not over-heat them.
Stainless steel brake rotors are actually poor for coefficient of friction but they are extremely durable. Brake pads are designed to deposit a layer of pad material on the rotors to increase the CoF. The process of depositing pad material requires heat but not as much as during regular operation, therefore you should brake moderately (as Tim said) a number of times. It can be done during an on-track session but it requires real restraint to not over-heat them.
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