Blown Fuse | GTAMotorcycle.com

Blown Fuse

J

just curious

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Just installed new 55W HIDs on the F4i. The headlights normally have a 10 amp fuse, which runs fine with just the low beam HID, but when I turned on the high beam it blew the fuse.

What are my options? I really don't see any time I'd need the high beam considering how bright these are, but I still want to be able to use them. What are the implications if I replace it with a 20 amp fuse? I'm new to electrical work so I'm sorry if that's a dumb question.

Thanks.
 
Just read up on what could happen if I install a larger fuse. Seems like a terrible idea now.

Any other suggestions?
 
I have the same bike but had 35W HIDs. Fuse blew after 2 months of just using the low beam. replaced it with the spare 10 amp which worked, but then another couple of months later the stator died which killed my battery.

Never putting HIDs in again lol.
 
a bigger fuse will allow the harness to fry the lighting circut, melt the connector plugs and toast your stator. leave it stock, and stay away from hid lights! i have repalced more stators this year, because of hid lights.
 
I've been running HIDs on my XX for three years with no problem. I felt the stock wiring was way too light so I ran a #12 wire fused at 10 amps (and matching ground) up from the battery to a pair of relays triggered by the original headlamp wiring.
 
shewie said:
I've been running HIDs on my XX for three years with no problem. I felt the stock wiring was way too light so I ran a #12 wire fused at 10 amps (and matching ground) up from the battery to a pair of relays triggered by the original headlamp wiring.
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This would have been my suggestion
 
The "plug and play" systems in which the power is coming through the normal headlight circuit don't seem like a good idea because of the in-rush current. The one that I just installed requires a separate power cable coming straight from the battery with its own 20 amp fuse. The stock headlamp circuit is only used to give a control signal. Whether they'll be any good in the long term ... remains to be seen.
 
Brian P said:
The "plug and play" systems in which the power is coming through the normal headlight circuit don't seem like a good idea because of the in-rush current. The one that I just installed requires a separate power cable coming straight from the battery with its own 20 amp fuse. The stock headlamp circuit is only used to give a control signal. Whether they'll be any good in the long term ... remains to be seen.
Click to expand...

Any of the smaller digital ballasts I've installed have a peak inrush current of 8 amps (each side). One of the kits I have has a peak of 5 amps (each).

Some are good, some are bad.
 
Stewart said:
a bigger fuse will allow the harness to fry the lighting circut, melt the connector plugs and toast your stator. leave it stock, and stay away from hid lights! i have repalced more stators this year, because of hid lights.
Click to expand...

I understand that HID's can blow fuses due to the slight increase in startup current, but how is it that the lower running current is killing stators?
I could see the lighter load of 35w HID's being more harmful to the R/R, which now has to dissipate more power, but how can this harm a stator?
 
I believe those 55W's pull about 10A on start-up so you might have to run a larger power wire if you want to raise the fuse size which would be your best option or just purchase another set in 35W
 
jeffjones said:
So really all they are doing is hardwiring your headlights to your battery and adding a relay.
Click to expand...

Hey Jeff

Any blown fuse problems with the DDM kits?

Just ordered mine and wondering if I'll be going through the same?
 
DDM Tuning said:
[FONT=wp_bogus_font]Fully digital, draws less than 6 amps at start up and 3.4 amps at normal operating temperature. [/FONT]
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In a perfect world, this means that once my low is warmed to operating temperature, I should be able to flick on the high as needed without blowing a 10 amp fuse...going to investigate some rewiring as well - thanks.
 
09SV650S said:
Hey Jeff

Any blown fuse problems with the DDM kits?

Just ordered mine and wondering if I'll be going through the same?
Click to expand...


I have ordered about 10 kits from them (Hi/Lo's and Fogs in my truck, and Hi and Lo in my bike + kits for friends) with absolutely no problems whats so ever, the only problem I have had with HID's are the previous ones from the truck that I bought from Royal Distributing for $200 4 years ago that burnt out in just over a year and then were replaced with DDM's.

just curious said:
In a perfect world, this means that once my low is warmed to operating temperature, I should be able to flick on the high as needed without blowing a 10 amp fuse...going to investigate some rewiring as well - thanks.
Click to expand...

I would just grab a wiring Harness http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/HID-Kit-Wiring-Harness
and it will fix the problem, It will just draw the current directly from the battery to power the lights instead of drawing the current through the small gauge headlight wiring, Its the exact same thing that "macrider" posted.
 
jeffjones said:
I have ordered about 10 kits from them (Hi/Lo's and Fogs in my truck, and Hi and Lo in my bike + kits for friends) with absolutely no problems whats so ever, the only problem I have had with HID's are the previous ones from the truck that I bought from Royal Distributing for $200 4 years ago that burnt out in just over a year and then were replaced with DDM's.



I would just grab a wiring Harness http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/HID-Kit-Wiring-Harness
and it will fix the problem, It will just draw the current directly from the battery to power the lights instead of drawing the current through the small gauge headlight wiring, Its the exact same thing that "macrider" posted.
Click to expand...

Good ?
 
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