Best gap filling adhesive for metal to ABS bonding? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Best gap filling adhesive for metal to ABS bonding?

robmack

robmack

Well-known member
Hi, I need to bond together an ABS plastic part to sheet metal and need a gap filling adhesive with strong bonding characteristics. The application is for use on a motorcycle headlight assembly so the joint will be exposed to temperature and water. The parts will be clamped in the application and will be under compression. This means there are no shear or tension forces acting on the parts. The gaps are large -- anywhere from 0" (full contact) to about 1/8". The surface area to bond to is large.

Is JB Weld the best for this application or construction adhesive maybe?

Thanks for helping.
 
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JB Weld is the toughest stuff that I know of for something like this, but rough up the surfaces of both parts so that it has something to grab on to. Holes in the sheet metal part, dimples/grinding in the plastic part.
 
Either JB or PL will work, but PL will be uglier. Whoever thought baby diarhea brown was a good colour for a product should look for a new job.
 
I always thought of it as beige. Everyone loves beige. My kids never crapped that colour, always darker. Maybe it was their diet.
 
Beige or **** brown, it doesn't matter. The glue joint will be totally hidden anyway so no one will ever see it (if it continues to work of course :D ). I decided on JB Weld because I think it will flow just a little allowing it to gap fill just a little better than PL Premium. Besides, if I ever need to change the consistency of JB Weld, I can add West System Microlight filler.
 
crankcall said:
3M 5200 adhesive sealant.
makes jb weld and PL premium look like crazy glue
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They glue boats together with the stuff so it gets my vote. JB weld is basically an epoxy if I understand it. I don't like rigid adhesives when the two materials have different expansion rates.
 
I cracked the part of my wheel well at the bottom that fastens to my rear bumper (botched parking job, anyway...), it's some kind of black plastic (if you have a Corolla go ahead and tell me exactly what it is). The point where the bumper fastens just behind the wheel cracked off in a 1"x"1 L shape around the fastener. It looks like if I can clean it up and find the right adhesive it's no biggie to get it stuck back together. What of these products will get that stuck together best? Where do I get the 3M 5200 if that's the trick? CT only has the JB weld on their website but it doesn't say it is okay for plastic. They have something called PermaPoxy that states it's for plastic. Any suggestions?
 
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Repairing a piece that small which obviously can be under load will be difficult without adding reinforcement. The easiest way forward is to stitch it with safety wire.
 
I'm pretty sure he just said > "This means there are no shear or tension forces acting on the parts"
Agave scrolls back to double check....reading is easy.... :rolleyes:

Sounds like a few things would work, JB, cold weld epoxy, liquid metal, exhaust cement which you could paint.
Just off the top of my head.
9c813b26306a532d35a3a9ae77c5c35b.jpg

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AGAVE said:
I'm pretty sure he just said > "This means there are no shear or tension forces acting on the parts"
Agave scrolls back to double check....reading is easy....
Click to expand...
Agave, you quoted my original ask correctly, but this may not be valid for eljay's application.

Eljay's plastic fender guard might be under stress and GreyGhost's suggestion is a good idea. Best to mechanically secure the parts to allow stress to transfer to the mounting screw, then use a bonding agent, like JB Weld, to secure the parts together. I don't think the guard needs great flexibility but if it distorts under stress, it might break the bond over time. Roughing up the bonding surfaces will help prevent that problem.
 
3M stuff can be ordered and purchased at any auto parts place like NAPA etc. Will be best for boding, not cheap like JB though.
 
I've plastic welded a few of those with no issues whatsoever ... can you remove the part ? That would make it much easier .... cheers , Les


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Safety wire then adhesive, epoxy or jb weld. I prefer JB weld - sets up stronger
 
I couldn't get the inside of the fender off, so I just did my best to clean the dirt/salt off.
Theres a bit of flex, so I was able to make the separated pieces overlap by about 1/4". Scuffed up the surfaces, cleaned with alcohol, then just used Super Glue and held the pieces together until they stuck on their own (about 5 minutes).
It's not pretty under lights, but it's not visible unless you stick your head in the wheel well either.
It's held up a couple weeks and survived 2 car washes so I think I'm done for now.

cheekeebandito said:
I've plastic welded a few of those with no issues whatsoever ... can you remove the part ? That would make it much easier .... cheers , Les


Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
AGAVE said:
I'm pretty sure he just said > "This means there are no shear or tension forces acting on the parts"
Agave scrolls back to double check....reading is easy.... :rolleyes:

Sounds like a few things would work, JB, cold weld epoxy, liquid metal, exhaust cement which you could paint.
Just off the top of my head.
9c813b26306a532d35a3a9ae77c5c35b.jpg

180-14600_2.jpg
Click to expand...
I'll have to agree with this. Cold Weld is pretty much the standard for stuff like this..
 
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