If I want to order bearings from a jobber instead of say All Balls is it just a matter of presenting them with ID, OD, Thickness and whether or not it needs to be sealed on one side or both?
Depending on the bearing, there should be a number stamped right on it (6304,etc.) You can specify shielded one side, both sides, loose fit (C2 or C3). If it's a tapered bearing (steering head, wheel bearing) it's best to give them dimensions. You can also look on the genuine replacement parts list, sometimes that will tell you what bearing is used.If I want to order bearings from a jobber instead of say All Balls is it just a matter of presenting them with ID, OD, Thickness and whether or not it needs to be sealed on one side or both?
Most bearings used in motorcycles are precision ground bearings, they will have a number engraved into the seal or bearing. Some have prefixes and suffixes - you need those as they describe variants that are really important.If I want to order bearings from a jobber instead of say All Balls is it just a matter of presenting them with ID, OD, Thickness and whether or not it needs to be sealed on one side or both?
When axle nuts are tightened, the bearing’s inner race is locked to the fork and hub (or spanner bushing) not the axle.… Most hubs are designed in such a matter that when the axle nut is tightened the bearing inner races are locked to the axle.
And why its important to grease the axle sticks.As a caveat I will mention if you intend to travel at extreme speeds sealed bearings may cause some skidding of the bearing on the axle. Most hubs are designed in such a matter that when the axle nut is tightened the bearing inner races are locked to the axle. Make sure the spacer between the inner races is not worn.
I don’t think this happens in a precision wheel bearing that is in spec. You would need that bearing to exceed 50,000rpm, that would be around 3,000 mph on a motorcycle.…As a caveat I will mention if you intend to travel at extreme speeds sealed bearings may cause some skidding of the bearing on the axle.
According to this you want 2x 6302 for the front and 2x 6304 and a 6305 for the rear... ya gotta love Honda's part numbers, the bearing number is part of the part number. With Yamaha and Suzuki they give you the size.I'm looking to replace the wheel bearings (early '70s CB750K) ....
I don’t think you need to worry about seals at all, just leave them — there’s no other lube going in — that’s the only reason for removing a seal.… want ONE rubber seal you want 6302R (which no one will have, take the 6302-2R and remove one seal... or do what I do; 6302 Z, one metal seal, then toss the OEM rubber dust seal that goes over the bearing, #18 on the front
Seals prevent outside world stuff from entry, but sometimes seals also prevent lubrication. If a standard 6203 is used inside an engine, it asks for oil lube on the inside, so removing the seal on one side is essential.Theoretically, the seal only needs to be present between the inside of the assembly and the outside world. A bearing on each side of a wheel probably (depends on the design of the wheel) is only exposed to the outside world on the outside sides of each bearing. Removing the unnecessary seal removes a microscopic amount of friction. In this application, I don't bother removing it.
The seals should be left in place if the bearing is not lubricated by oil or periodic packing. The seal keeps grime out, and the permanent grease in.Theoretically, the seal only needs to be present between the inside of the assembly and the outside world. A bearing on each side of a wheel probably (depends on the design of the wheel) is only exposed to the outside world on the outside sides of each bearing. Removing the unnecessary seal removes a microscopic amount of friction. In this application, I don't bother removing it.