Battery - not charging or not keeping charge?

bboySushi

bboySushi

Well-known member
Bike: K7 GSXR600
Additional electrical components: 2 LED strips (brake light), Scorpio alarm i900

So this has happened to me only a handful of times in the last 3 seasons I've had this bike. Luckily it was always when I was at home.

First time: Not much riding time, rode it back home and then shut it off. Not much later, tried to start it and the display was all messed up and wouldn't crank - recharged battery and it was fine.

Second time: After winterization (batt was on tender) I put it in the bike for a good month or so while I was doing stuff like chain/sprockets, tires. While testing the LED strips the battery died. Recharged fine before I actually starting riding this season. LED strip is fed off the brake light and grounded into the bike frame in the trunk.

Third time: Last night, was out for a night ride. Had turned my bike on/off several times (stopping for drinks, taking pictures for photo tag, etc.). Rode maybe 40 km and went home. While pulling into my driveway, I noticed the gear shifter was stuck on 2. Odd. So I turned the bike off, and tried to turn it back on. Alarm went off, bike wouldn't crank, headlights looked dim. Took the battery out to charge (charger said it was not full). Now, since the second time, I've been riding the bike at least every other day.

So, begs the question: Is this a stator problem? It seems to happen randomly though and not consistently. How can I confirm this? Or is this some battery problem, maybe the level is low or something? I can borrow a better multimeter but the voltage seemed normal (was an analog with a huge range) when I tested it 2 weeks ago, and the rectifier is definitely fine as I checked this recently.
 
I'd point to the alarm draining the battery. Disconnect it for a few days and see if it makes a difference. I've heard aftermarket alarms drain the batteries quick.

That being said it is a 6 year old battery.
 
Yes I do believe this is the original battery, but last season I went without a single drain like this. The alarm does drain, but I would assume by riding every other day it should keep it charged. I know 7-10 days and the alarm does start to take its toll. Does the bike charge itself that slowly?

For the battery, can I take it to crappy tire and get them to check it? Or should I just leave it in my room unplugged and monitor the voltage?
 
You can put a voltmeter on your battery then rev your engine to see if the voltage increases. If it does your charging system is working.
 
Ok I think that may be the problem. When I was testing the rectifier the needle did not budge at all when I was revving. I will need to get a real multimeter to test the reading as it was 0-250V so, may be hard to see a jump from 12 to 15V. I guess the stator is cheaper, but more work to replace than a battery. Plus I'd probably change the cover too since its scratched.
 
has the battery been load tested lately?

See if the bike is putting out decent voltage...if it is..get the battery load tested.

Check Voltage from Idle to 7K (Idle / 3K / 6K / 7K) --> IF Charging Votlage is (between 12.7~14.2V)--> Charging system is fine --> (then) Battery needs to be load tested.

Check Voltage from Idle to 7K (Idle / 3K / 6K / 7K) --> IF Charging Votlage NOT (between 12.7~14.2V)--> Charging system is NOT fine --> (then) test stator / rectifier

Check Voltage from Idle to 7K (Idle / 3K / 6K / 7K) --> IF Charging Votlage is (between 12.7~14.2V)--> Charging system is fine --> (then) Battery needs to be load tested --> IF battery is fine --> Then check of parasitic draw.
 
I don't think it's the original battery (orig is Yuasa?) actually.

So I bought a multimeter, after full charge, was reading 12.4-12.7V.
When the bike is on, voltage drops to about 11.9V. Revving, voltage did not increase, rev'd it up to 7-8k. =(

I checked ebay and the stator alone was $110-200 ahhh is there a better place to get them? I might try messaging Glen from FS or Bluestreak and see what they can do for a stator/cover combo, is that the best route? I don't trust getting a used stator off someone's bike if that were even possible as I don't know how to check its condition.
 
Keep in mind that typical batteries only last 3-5 years or so (and that's with proper winter care). Sometimes you get lucky and eke out more time, but if you've had the battery for 4 or 5 years, it could be time for a replacement anyway.
 
bboySushi said:
So I bought a multimeter, after full charge, was reading 12.4-12.7V. When the bike is on, voltage drops to about 11.9V. Revving, voltage did not increase, rev'd it up to 7-8k. =( I checked ebay and the stator alone was $110-200 ahhh is there a better place to get them?
Click to expand...

Don't go changing things if you don't KNOW that they need to be changed. Especially when you're going to end up knocking magnets off the flywheel (or something like that,) and ending up in deeper.

The stator makes anywhere from 0 to 75 VAC; the regulator/rectifier turns it into 13.5 V-14.5 V DC. This sounds more like a regulator problem, but you can be systematic and troubleshoot and isolate the problem for sure. As it is, your output isn't even going to charge the battery to 50%

Follow this:
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

Start at start. If you can't solve your problem with this, the bike is not the problem.
Please note, that for these tests to mean anything you need a fully charged and strong battery.
 
If your r/r is fried you likely need a new battery too. Battery's are cheap from saskbattery.com. I picked up a r/r from rm stator in Quebec for 90$ but picked up a spare for $20 from china eBay cause for my model of bike r/rs are a known fail point. There are instructions on how to test your r/r on the net, an r/r is an r/r is an r/r, I've seen one brand/model substituted to a different brand/model because they failed less as long as the connectors line up you're good, if they don't well you might have to solder.
 
So on friday, I rode to work. Started fine at lunch. After work I rode 10 minutes and at a red light the bike died. Except this time it didn't crank. I pushed it to the nearest gas station, fortunately my friend lived down the road. Sat at his house to charge the battery, but it was taking a long time to top off. I just took it off a little prematurely, checked the voltage, 12.4V ok let's get home.

Rode back but 5 minutes from my house the bike died while moving. Pushed it the rest of the way since my phone also died.

So I think either way the battery is toast, there is NO way it didn't have enough charge to last a 10 minute ride if it cranked up .. requires less voltage to maintain regular riding correct?

Anyways I ordered a new yuasa from FS, and then I will properly and thoroughly check the rest of the electrical system. Didnt' make sense to check it with a bad battery. I am monitoring the battery now, was fully charged and leaving it on the floor and checking voltage over the day. Time to replace the batt anyways, it's 3+ years old.

If the batt is dead though, wouldn't you be able to recrank the bike if you were still coasting, or is that diff from push starting? I'm sure my stator is shot too but don't want to jump to conclusions until I have a new battery and follow the manual's test.
 
Uh guys, are we all forgetting the K6-K9 (I think K9 anyway) Gixxers have a reg/rec issue? My buddy has replaced the stator, regulator and rectifier twice now in 2 seasons on his K6
 
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