185K kilometers, maintenance?

S

silverbullet132

Well-known member
No functioning odometer, but based on what the previous owner told me, it is now at about 185,000kms

What should get looked at around this mileage, valves? Aside from that looking to get springs, valves, adjustable caps in the forks, and a 929 shock with mid grade revalve from Daugherty Motorsports. Was thinking of getting a scottoiler too.

Stator and R/R are both recent, under 3000km on both.
 
silverbullet132 said:
No functioning odometer, but based on what the previous owner told me, it is now at about 185,000kms

What should get looked at around this mileage, valves? Aside from that looking to get springs, valves, adjustable caps in the forks, and a 929 shock with mid grade revalve from Daugherty Motorsports. Was thinking of getting a scottoiler too.

Stator and R/R are both recent, under 3000km on both.
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I would have the coolant hoses replaced & the wheel bearings examined. What bike is it?

Sent from my phone using my paws
 
IMO, save the money you are thinking of blowing on the Scott Oiler. I had one once. I wouldn't put one on my bike if they were giving them away.
VERY messy & VERY expensive for the relatively mediocre job it does.
 
Gary said:
IMO, save the money you are thinking of blowing on the Scott Oiler. I had one once. I wouldn't put one on my bike if they were giving them away.
VERY messy & VERY expensive for the relatively mediocre job it does.
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Did not think they were that bad, M13 on youtube loves his (even before he became a distributor).
 
Engine gaskets? Any seeping?
Waterpump & thermostat? any seeping?

If not ride another 100k
 
RockerGuy said:
Engine gaskets? Any seeping?
Waterpump & thermostat? any seeping?

If not ride another 100k
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Very small/slow oil leak from front sprocket area, aside from that no leaks. Getting that looked at as soon as I have time. Should I still get the coolant hoses replaced or just get them looked at?

OEM replacements or is there a better option? Also forgot to mention it has spiegler brake and clutch lines.
 
silverbullet132 said:
Very small/slow oil leak from front sprocket area, aside from that no leaks. Getting that looked at as soon as I have time. Should I still get the coolant hoses replaced or just get them looked at?

OEM replacements or is there a better option? Also forgot to mention it has spiegler brake and clutch lines.
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I would just replace them. Look at the connecting points and squeeze the hose by hand, if there are any cracking; replace. You could go to crappy tire to see if they have the hoses in same size or go to Part Source to see if they have a similar diameter hose
 
This is great news for my 2000 VFR with 42,000 kms. My mechanic also has a VFR with 144,000 kms so it's not rare territory.

A few general things I'd look for...

-Play in the back end and the chain adjustment eccentric (apply force,see if it rocks side-side);
-Look at the exposed frame and rear subframe for any cracks;
-When you swap forks, check (and replace) the steering head bearing;
-Look closely at the wiring harnesses and see if any wires or connectors are ratty or burnt (esp. the stator wire).

vfrworld.com and (especially) vfrdiscussion.com are really great sites for you.

Good luck.
 
Alot of threads on the VFR boards about taking apart the rear wheel bearings and accentric and cleaning out all the crud that gets stuck in there.

I wanna do that to my VFR some day
 
slowbird said:
Alot of threads on the VFR boards about taking apart the rear wheel bearings and accentric and cleaning out all the crud that gets stuck in there.

I wanna do that to my VFR some day
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Never thought about that one :)

Will have to get all of this looked into.
 
Coolant hoses I would replace. Look at any of the rubber bits to see if they are brittle or cracked (TB boots etc.). Check your cables for cracks and wear. Do the regular maintenance stuff (valves, chain, coolant, brake pads, brake fluid, etc.). Read up on VFR specific stuff and look at it. I would also have a look see at the battery.
 
silverbullet132 said:
Never thought about that one :)

Will have to get all of this looked into.
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Yeah! It looks pretty in depth but I can tell already on my VFr when I'm turning the chain adjuster it feels/sounds a bit crunchy in there.

Oh! Throttle Body sync? That's a thing right? lol.

All the Hyrdraulic fluids are all flushed? My Viffer had a very muddy Clutch Master and Slave.

Maybe next oil change do a Blackstones lab oil analysis
 
slowbird said:
Yeah! It looks pretty in depth but I can tell already on my VFr when I'm turning the chain adjuster it feels/sounds a bit crunchy in there.

Oh! Throttle Body sync? That's a thing right? lol.

All the Hyrdraulic fluids are all flushed? My Viffer had a very muddy Clutch Master and Slave.

Maybe next oil change do a Blackstones lab oil analysis
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Will do on that oil analysis, all hydraulic fluid was replaced with ATE Super Blue Racing Fluid.
 
Gary said:
IMO, save the money you are thinking of blowing on the Scott Oiler.
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This might be interesting instead of the motor-driven Scott Oiler: http://www.loobman.co.uk/index.asp

It oils at the press of a button, instead of endlessly dribbling oil on your chain.

I'm terrible at remembering to oil my chain and as a result, I find myself replacing my chain and sprockets 1-2 times a 35K season. I have a centre stand, but I never remember to oil the chain until after I've mounted all the touring boxes, tipping the bike back on its rear wheel. "I'll take care of that at my next stop" turns into next week.

I'll be trying one out soon.
 
I ran a Scottoiler on my Shadow. i loved it. It was messy but I didn't care how clean my rear rim was. Mine wasn't adjusted perfectly either. I know I could have tweaked it but I couldn't be bothered. I would buy another. I never worried about oiling my chain, just gas 'n go.
 
Katapult said:
I ran a Scottoiler on my Shadow. i loved it.
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One thing that always concerned me about the Scottoiler is how short-lived the stock oil reservoirs are. When a single trip can be over 14000km, that seemed like a hassle to keep feeding the reservoir every 3500km.

Having just found a page for miles-per-reservoir, I see that the Lubetube add-on can last 9600km. That's not bad. And the new (to me) Magnum High Capacity Reservoir (sorta mounts behind a Euro-sized license plate) looks great at about 25000km.

http://www.scottoiler.com/us/support/reservoir-capacities.html

I'm almost disappointed that I ordered the push-to-oil system. Ahh well, at least it only cost about GBP25. We'll see how it works.
 
sadrik said:
One thing that always concerned me about the Scottoiler is how short-lived the stock oil reservoirs are. When a single trip can be over 14000km, that seemed like a hassle to keep feeding the reservoir every 3500km.

Having just found a page for miles-per-reservoir, I see that the Lubetube add-on can last 9600km. That's not bad. And the new (to me) Magnum High Capacity Reservoir (sorta mounts behind a Euro-sized license plate) looks great at about 25000km.

http://www.scottoiler.com/us/support/reservoir-capacities.html

I'm almost disappointed that I ordered the push-to-oil system. Ahh well, at least it only cost about GBP25. We'll see how it works.
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Link to where you got it please?

Sent from my SH-02E using Tapatalk 2
 
sadrik said:
I'm sorry, where I got what?

I posted the push-to-oil system in post #15, but here it is again in case that's what you were asking for: http://www.loobman.co.uk/index.asp
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Thanks, missed it in the first post. If it can mount on my VFR I will buy one :) Seems easy enough to hold a button for a few seconds after every gas fill up.
 
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