Stunt cages will generally cause more problems than they solve when used on the race track. If they serve their primary function then they will be the first parts that contact the ground when leaned over ... i.e. they will reduce cornering clearance. I've got scrape marks on the lower fairing of my race bike that were not caused by crashing ... so there is no room for further reduction of cornering clearance.
Even so-called frame sliders (mounted as usual, to engine mount bolts with no "give" at all) can cause more problems than they solve. They are fine for low-speed tip-overs. But if you toss it down the track, there is a significant chance that the bike will hit something solid (curb, rocks, etc) while it is sliding on its side. Fiberglass fairings can give a little bit and give the bike a fighting chance of soaking up the hit. But if a solid engine-bolt-mounted frame slider strikes an immovable object, something WILL give ... like the frame of the bike, or the engine case itself. Really really bad. That undamaged plastic fairing looks really good when it is covering up the bent frame of your bike with the engine mount busted off the crankcase because that's what the frame slider transmitted the impact to.
Naked is not good, either. Fiberglass fairings are cheaper than radiators or many of the other bits that they cover up - and help to protect.
Roadrace bikes, generally, have aftermarket fiberglass fairings, toughened crankcase covers (depends on the shape of the engine), and MIGHT have a few unobtrusive sliders on axle ends and handlebar ends, and maybe clutch and brake levers with designed-in break points, but generally not engine-bolt-mounted frame sliders, and certainly not stunt cages.
I helped someone on this forum build a set of frame sliders for his bike (unobtainium Japanese grey import) and we intentionally mounted the frame slider on a piece of steel flat bar away from the engine mount bolts. The flat bar extended between two of the engine mount bolts, but the frame slider itself attached to the middle of that bar, away from the engine bolts. The idea is that the flat bar should be strong enough if the bike has a tip-over or normal low-side, but if the bike slides into a curb, the flat bar should take the hit and bend, absorbing the hit, hopefully without transmitting enough of the direct impact to the engine bolts to cause a problem for the frame or engine. We can hammer back into shape, or re-make, a flat bar with two holes in it and a nut welded to the back. Frames and crankcases, not so easy.