Yup, the OEM chain on my 2000 VFR800 definitely suffered from premature failure, when I exclusively used WD40. It should have lasted well more that 49,000 Km.
Over lubing a drive chain has no positive effect or benefit that I know of. In fact over lubing will cause the lube to fling off onto the rear tire, body work and even onto the rider's back. I have seen severe excess lubing get all over the rear tire and we all know what can happen when oil and rubber mix = buffing will not fix that broken bodywork!
Excess lube attracts and collects dirt and grime more easily and in greater quantity which results in more grinding between the chain and the sprocket. This accelerates chain/sprocket wear and ups the rolling resistance, thereby, robbing you of horsepower.
I clean my chains about every 10,000 kms.
I lube approx. every 500 - 800 kms. The weather (rain or dry riding) and speeds averaged have an effect. Basically I lube it when it looks dry. I do not wait for that polished chrome look so many bikes have on the rollers. Remember to put a drop of lube on each and every o-ring on both sides of the chain as they need to be kept lubed to remain supple.
A clean chain will hold onto the chain lube better. All the manuals I have read say to use kerosene only for chain cleaning. The reason is that it cleans but also has some lubricating quality in it. The cheapest way to obtain kerosene that I know of is to go to a Canadian Tire store and buy a 946 ml. bootle of clear kerosene for about $2 - $5 (memory)in the camping section. Pour some of it into an old spray bottle that you may have used in the kitchen for example. I simply attached a spray nozzle from an old bottle. Kerosene will remove all grease, oils and WAXES, but will not affect the paint and decals. I have done this for a few years now and have the white painted wheels to prove it.
Simply spray it on, get a higher pressure hose and rinse off within 2 -4 minutes! I also spray the chain guard, swing arm.... trying to keep it off the brake caliper, pads and rotors area. Works great if your rear wheel is on a stand so that you can manually rotate the wheel and chain to fully cover the chain and sprocket.
Afterwards I idle the bike in gear for a couple minutes to fling off and help air dry the chain. The lube it completely so it does not start to rust.
A key I learned on line at a chain lube site is: if possible lube a warm chain and wait 30 minutes before riding the bike. This allows the propellant (the medium in the aresol can that helps get the lube out of the can) to evaporate. Then all that is left is the lube on your chain. I have done this and riden 400 kms with no lube on the white rear wheel or bodywork.
I use a spot the size of a quarter on a piece of clothe to wipe oil splatter of off the aluminum frame just above the chain near the foot peg (takes 10 seconds).
The commercial cleaners that I have seen at dealerships and GPBikes simply contain kerosene! Smell it!:snorting: Feel it. I have used them. Used TDK (red writing on gray can $9.99).
I really do not like the one that comes with a curly brush in the cap (Torx or some name like that) because the brush can push the dirt and grime into and past the o-rings on the chain. This is not good.
That it for me.
