Spark Plug Torque wrench | GTAMotorcycle.com

Spark Plug Torque wrench

GSPLover

GSPLover

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Looking to pick up a torque wrench small enough to torque my bikes spark plugs. I've got a huge one for torquing my trucks wheel bolts etc but can't find a decent one small enough to fit in around the engine of my bike. Anyone suggest where I could pick one up? My spark plug torque as per the manual is 8ft-lbs.
 
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You don't need a torque wrench (unless you just want to have one for the tool collection...). Finger tight (tighten as much as you can with your fingers, feel free to use the socket and extension for grip, no ratchet or other handle--it is finger tight) and then a 1/4 turn with the ratchet will get it done. That is about 8 ft-lbs BTW, likley as acurate as a made in China Torque wrench.

You just need to compress the "gasket" enough to get a seal and have it tight enough it does not come loose.
 
Ya, thats exactly what I did but I swear the bike sounds louder/throatier now. Just concerned I didnt tighten quite enough.
 
You can get something cheap from Princess Auto. That's what I have, but I don't know what kind of +- tolerances it has.
 
I just used my socket and gave it the same amount of force that I needed to take the plugs out lol. I figured if it was that tight to get off, it should be that tight going back in.
 
Spark plugs with gaskets (metal rings) only need an 1/8 to 1/4 turn after finger tight. Another more and you're asking for trouble.
 
Could somewhat loose plugs cause the engine to sound louder? Theres no doubt that the engine sounds louder/deeper then before I changed the plugs. Like Ive left a hose off or something and the exhaust gases arent all going through the exhaust to be quietened my the muffler.
The bike seems to be performing just fine however. Rev's fine and has no problem with power.... as soon as I twist the throttle the power is there and off I go. No other odd noises that I can hear.
I'm going to take the air filter box off again on friday to double check the plugs and that everything is connected.
 
Loose plugs make a specific noise... it sounds like tapping. Very loose or missing plug(s) make a sound like a noisy air compressor. It definitely doesn't sound like regular exhaust noise.

Torquing new plugs usually isn't necessary (as mentioned above) but it can be helpful to use a torque wrench to reinstall good plugs that you've removed for whatever reason. The 1/4 turn rule does NOT work reliably if the gasket is already compressed.
 
Ya... Watched a couple vids on loose plugs. Def no tapping/clicking.... Just sounds louder! Maybe a hose came off as I put the air box on again. When I first put it back on the engine sounded like a diesel... Turned out a hose had somehow come off. Could a pinched PAIR hose cause a louder engine?
 
GSPLover said:
Ya... Watched a couple vids on loose plugs. Def no tapping/clicking.... Just sounds louder! Maybe a hose came off as I put the air box on again. When I first put it back on the engine sounded like a diesel... Turned out a hose had somehow come off. Could a pinched PAIR hose cause a louder engine?
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Sounding like a diesel can be caused by accidentally swapping spark plug leads. Ripping off vacuum hoses might make a little bit of noise and make the bike idle funny but generally won't cause a dramatic difference
 
I did each plug one at a time... Def didnt swap leads. Bike idles fine... Im stumped.
 
Perhaps the air box snorkel (inlet) was moved or displaced during the plug install? Engine will definitely be throatier and sound more powerful.

FWIW, 8 ft/lbs = 96 in/lbs. Find yourself a 1/4" torque wrench and a 1/4 to 3/8" adapter. This is right in the 'sweet spot' of range for most 1/4" torque wrenches, so it's not critical to get the most expensive/accurate one possible.

Ask anyone who's repaired a spark plug thread how important torque is w.r.t. spark plugs...
 
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ravensix said:
I just used my socket and gave it the same amount of force that I needed to take the plugs out lol. I figured if it was that tight to get off, it should be that tight going back in.
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You're joking right?
A plug would be harder to remove than to put in because of galvanic corrosion between steel & aluminum.
You're overtorquing your plugs!

Another point I'd like to add is to put some antiseize between the new plugs
 
RockerGuy said:
You're joking right?
A plug would be harder to remove than to put in because of galvanic corrosion between steel & aluminum.
You're overtorquing your plugs!

Another point I'd like to add is to put some antiseize between the new plugs
Click to expand...

It's personal preference, but I'm not big on antiseize. I prefer a couple of drops of clean engine oil on the threads, makes turning in the new plug a breeze and will keep them from locking up with corrosion if serviced regularly. Mazda encourages this with their aluminum head 2.0 and 2.2L industrial engines and I've had no issues for years. GM specs antiseize on their aluminum head 2.4L, I stock a thread repair kit for the 2.4L engine in my service truck.
 
theraymondguy said:
It's personal preference, but I'm not big on antiseize. I prefer a couple of drops of clean engine oil on the threads, makes turning in the new plug a breeze and will keep them from locking up with corrosion if serviced regularly. Mazda encourages this with their aluminum head 2.0 and 2.2L industrial engines and I've had no issues for years. GM specs antiseize on their aluminum head 2.4L, I stock a thread repair kit for the 2.4L engine in my service truck.
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I replace my plugs s in my car at 100k,they're platinum.

Those in my bike is replaced at 20k, they're iridium. If I don't put antiseize there, I'd have to use an impact wrench to get it out
 
theraymondguy said:
Perhaps the air box snorkel (inlet) was moved or displaced during the plug install? Engine will definitely be throatier and sound more powerful.
Click to expand...

Yes, this is exactly what Im hearing.... will be opening the bike up again friday.... but when you say air box snorkel, what exactly do you mean? The inlets are two large holes at the front of the air box, which lead into the box before the air filter. Then after the filter there are the throttle body inlets. Sorry, I'm not overly experienced with engines, the plugs are the only things I'd even TRY to tackle. Changing wheels, brake rotors/pads, oil/filter, fluids, chains/sprockets etc are no problem But I stay away from the engine.
 
If your engine is sounding "louder/throatier" it is most likely air related. Could be as simple as the air box cover not completely seated. Check over your work, check all hoses and ensure air box is closed correctly and air filter is seated properly.
 
Well I went to princess auto and picked up a 1/4 inch, inch/pound torque wrench.
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/1-4-in-dr-click-type-torque-wrench/A-p2922045e
Nice thing with these wrenches is that they come with a certificate that they were tested in the factory and the torque numbers are listed. The wrench I got was only made/tested back in December.
Took the airbox off and all 4 plugs needed a little torquing to the 96 inch-pound (8 ft-lb) point. At idle the Bike now sounds like I remember it. Still sounds a bit loud when riding at times but I'm thinking that I'm just imaging it now. Do still need to put a new air filter in though.
 
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